Saturday, November 24, 2007

Beyond The Frame: Puspa Wresti

Image Copyright © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved

This Beyond The Frame post features Puspa Wresti dancers applying their makeup, and readying themselves for a photo-shoot in Kerobokan in Bali.

I arranged a photo-shoot with Puspa Wresti dancers during my Bali: Island of Gods photo-expedition by locating a classical dance school, and convincing its head teacher to make available these young women to photograph in a Hindu temple.

As I wrote elsewhere in this blog, the Balinese people's belief in animism and ancestor worship, in addition to Hindu traditions, governs their everyday life and actions. This was demonstrated to us when -in the middle of the photo-shoot at the temple- one of the dancers suddenly became lightheaded, and had to stop dancing.

During the ensuing discussion with the teacher, I learned that her dancers were reluctant to resume dancing because of their belief that they had offended the temple's spirits...which caused one of them to feel unwell. Here, the sekala niskala was amply in evidence, with the spirit world affecting the physical world, and we had to move the whole troupe to another location.

It is a wise photographer who accepts with respect, humility and understanding other people's belief systems and works within its parameters.

One Shot: Goran Tomasevic

Image Copyright © Goran Tomasevic-All Rights Reserved

I chanced on this great photograph on the MSNBC photoblog (link below). The photograph is by Goran Tomasevic for Reuters, and is of an Afghan little boy looking at Dutch soldiers as they search his family's home in the Uruzagu province in Afghanistan. Tomasevic photographs for Reuters, and has made quite a name for himself in Palestine, Iraq and Afghanistan.

Mish Whalen, one of MSNBC's multimedia editors (who must've chosen this photograph for inclusion on the blog) commented on the photograph by writing this: "This photo caught my eye at first glance. I love the one eye of the woman on the left peeking out from the hood."

Whaaaat?!!! Ms Whalen ignores the overall tension in the scene, ignores the fear in this little boy's eyes, glosses over the apprehension in the woman's eye, and ignores the mother's protective crouch over her children... and crows about the "eye peeking out"?

Yes, I know...it's a storm in a teacup, but I'm just saying.

MSNBC's Photo Blog

Friday, November 23, 2007

Micah Albert: Southern Sudan

Image Copyright © Micah Albert-All Rights Reserved

Born and raised in California, Micah Albert studied and earned his B.A. in photography and graphic arts from Point Loma Nazarene University, Keller Visual Arts Center.

He has extensively covered Central and East Africa, notably Democratic Republic of Congo and Sudan. He documented and published his writing and photography ranging in topics from; Sudanese IDP and refugee camps, HIV/AIDS awareness in Kenya, active war zones in Sudan, village life in post-war Eastern Congo, slum life in Bukavu (Congo), and life in insurgent controlled North Kivu (DR Congo).

His website is a visual treat with captivating photographs, particularly those of Southern Sudan. Many of his photographs have interesting compositions...such as the one I chose for this post, showing some children in Southern Sudan studying math by using the dirt as an easel.

Micah Albert

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

May: Thanksgiving Turkey

Image Copyright © Jason Reed/Reuters

This is May, the National Thanksgiving Turkey, who was "pardoned" at the White House today. I wish all TTP blog readers a happy Thanksgiving!

New York Times: Marrakech

Image Copyright © Ingrid Pullar/NY Times-All Rights Reserved

Here's a travel feature from the New York Times which I can only describe as "space filler". I doubt whether any reader/viewer of this slide show will be moved to visit Marrakech by it...so I'm not sure what the objective is.

I think you'll agree.

The New York Times' Marrakech

Narayan Mahon: Beijing Hutongs

Image Copyright © Narayan Mahon-All Rights Reserved

Narayan Mahon is Maine-born and is based in Charlotte, North Carolina. He earned his Master’s degree in Photojournalism at Syracuse University's Newhouse School of Public Communications, and holds a Bachelor’s degree in International Studies from the University of North Carolina-Charlotte.

He specializes in reportage and travel photography, and has traveled and photographed in nearly 80 countries, and is a contributor to The New York Times, USA Today, Chicago Tribune, and Seattle Times.

His photojournalism projects on his website are in the popular Soundslides format. I had difficulty in choosing which project to feature on TTP, since they are all very good...but in the end, I decided on the Beijing Hutongs project, not only because of Narayan's documentary style street verite -type of photography, but also because of the project's cultural and historical interests. There is no narration to the slideshow, but it's accompanied by lovely Chinese music.

Here's some background on the hutongs: A hutong is an ancient city alley or lane typical in Beijing, where hutongs run into the several thousand. Surrounding the Forbidden City, many were built during the Yuan (1206-1341), Ming(1368-1628) and Qing(1644-1908) dynasties.

The regular hutongs were near the palace to the east and west, and arranged in orderly fashion along the streets. Most of the residents of these hutongs were imperial kinsmen and aristocrats. The simpler hutongs were located further to the north and south of the palace. The residents were merchants and other ordinary people.

Many of the hutongs are now being demolished to give way to high-rises, and a traditional way of life is threatened by China's modernization.

Narayan Mahon's Beijing Hutongs

Pattaya



In fact only 40 years ago Pattaya as we know it today, didn't even exist. On the stretch of coast between Sriracha and Sattahip, there were only a small number of fishing villages and in Pattaya bay itself, there were just a few fishing families who had settled here because of the calm waters and the safety of the bay, protected headlands to the North and South and by mountains behind. Their nearest neighbors lived just around the headland to the north, where, in the old days salt used to be produced (Naa-Klua = salt fields) but where there were now mainly fishing families. People traveled about by foot or by bullock carts because, except of the main road from Bangkok to Sattahip, only a few dirt roads and tracks existed.

Nevertheless, the bay and nearby islands provided good, safe fishing and more and more families came here to settle down, Gradually a village developed. At first was know as Tupphraya the general name for the area which dated back to the time when Pharaya Taksin (Duke Taksin) camped near here with the followers he had gathered to help free Thailand from the Burmese (Tupphraya - the Pharaya' - army)

As the village grew, the villagers wanted to give it a separate identity, so they adopted the name of Pattaya,which was the name they used for the strong winds which came from the South West at the beginning of every rainy season.
The pace of life was slow and it seemed as if Pattaya would remain an out-of-the-way place forever. Even up to 30 years ago there were only a few buses serving the 100 or more families who lived here and visitors from elsewhere were few and far between. But things were destined to change and as usual, it was a war (the Vietnam War) which changed them. The U.S.A. sent soldiers to build the air base at U Tapao and many of these took to spending their leisure time and money in Pattaya.

The beaches were clean in those days and the sea breezes made it pleasant and cool. People in the surrounding areas were quick to spot the business opportunities and bars guesthouses begun to spring up. The fisher - folk probably resented this intrusion, but it provided a good market for their catches and they soon got on the bandwagon by offering fishing trips to Koh Larn for about 50 Baht per head. Gradually, visitors from Bangkok also begun to use the resort at weekends, although the trip was a tiring 3 to 4 hours on the two-lane road.

Later the US Military based in Thailand begun to use Pattaya for rest and recreation (R&R) and bigger hotels and entertainment places (including the oldest profession of them all) were built to cater for them. Thus the' 60s and' 70s saw the most rapid change and development. In 1964 in view of its new importance, Pattata was raised to the status of a village and in 1979, elevated to that of a Teasban Nakhon (Municipality), responsible now for its own administration.

Today Pattaya is Thailand's premier beach resort and attracts annually more than a million tourists from all over the world. Pattaya provides high standard hotels, restaurants, sports, entertainment and shopping facilities. The resort is Thailand's most important diving center and the east coast is also a paradise for golfers.

Pattaya resort is located on the eastern coastline of Thailand's exotic Gulf of Siam and is approximately 140 km southeast of the capital city of Bangkok and about 160 Km from Bangkok International Airport. Which four parts: Central Pattaya, North Pattaya, South Pattaya and Jomtien Beach.



Central Pattaya

Pataya Klang, or Central Pattaya, is a little funkier than the Northern district. The hotels are not so grand, the restaurants smaller, and here you will find the beginning of Pattaya's bar-beers, or open-air bars. There are plenty of tailor shops, and some go-go bars. Pattaya police station, and the Immigration Office are here. Two main shopping malls, the Royal Garden Plaza and Mike's Place, are both in Central Pattaya. In addition to the action along Beach Road, many of the sois are very lively: Soi Post Office, and Soi Pattayaland 1, 2 and 3 in particular. There is a Tourist Police office on Beach Road near the junction with South Pattaya's Walking Street. The sois will all take you through to Second Road, where there are more bars and restaurants, and a couple of dive shops. There are many small hotels and guesthouses here, offering good value accommodation and no-frills Western and Thai dining.



North Pattaya / Naklua

Naklua means "salt fields", after the main occupation of the area before the rise of tourism and industry. There is still the air of an ancient village to Naklua today, for here you will see old wooden houses and narrow streets, traditional noodle shops and working fishing boats. The old houses over the creek are especially picturesque, and a walk through the streets will reveal plenty of little shops selling handicrafts and domestic goods. The Dolphin Roundabout and the beginning of Beach Road mark the junction with North Pattaya, and the surroundings change dramatically. This is the classy end of the resort, with upmarket hotel and restaurants facing out over the beach. Here too you can begin a pleasant walk along the bayfront, for a recently built promenade will take you along the shore under the palm trees right up to through to the back part of Pattaya, known as Second Road. There are more major hotels here, along with shopping areas, bars, clubs, and a Tourist Police office.

South Pattaya

South Pattaya Road curves sharply off from Beach Road, taking the traffic away from this busy district which is now known as Walking Street. A relatively recent development, this pedestrians only zone is welcome relief, allowing visitors to browse amongst the endless little shops offering fast tailoring services, sports goods, jewelry and souvenirs. Here too the bars are almost endless, as are the big seafood restaurants, several of them built out over the ocean and offering pleasant surroundings to enjoy you meal. South Pattaya tends to be older, brasher and busier than the remainder of the city. You can walk uninterrupted all the way through to the Siam Bayshore Hotel and Arthachinda Road, which effectively marks the boundary of South Pattaya. Take any of the sois, no matter how tiny they may seem, to make you way through to Pratamnak Road, the back part of Pattaya which links up with Second Road.

Around Jomtien Beach

As is so often the case in Thailand, you will see several different spellings of "Jomtien". This district, with its 6km beach, is divided off form the rest of Pattaya by the hill which rises to the back of South Pattaya. Drive over the hill, past the big Buddha and the Royal Cliff Hotel, and down into the relatively quiet Jomtien. The beach is popular with windsurfs and water sports enthusiasts, largely because the area enjoys brisk and fresh breezes sweeping inland from the Thai Gulf, and because the seas are less congested with boats than in Pattaya Bay. This is also the place to relax for a suntan, of go for long early morning or sunset walks along the oceanfront. There is little in the way of shopping or beer - bars at Jomtien, which is essentially a residential area with beachside hotels, bungalow complexes, condominiums and restaurants. Jomtien has its own very distinctive gay beach, accessed by turning right at the bottom of the hill; for all other attractions, turn left.

By Car

Departure from the Bangkok's Don Muang Airport to Pattaya daily (by direct expressway) at 09:00, 12:00, and 19:00. Duration +/- 2.5 hrs. Reservation: Thai limousine service, Thai Airways, arrival lounge, Bangkok Airport (Don Muang).

Fare : 280 baht.
Tel. 02- 535-2801, 02-535-2803. (Bangkok)
Tel. 038-423140-1(Pattaya)

(individual taxis are available for the same journey and cost from ?1500 to 2000 baht, one way)

By Bus

By 1st Class Air Conditioned Bus (Duration 2 1/2 hrs.)
Depart form the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) to the Pattaya Bus Station on North Pattaya Rd. daily at 05.00 hrs. and every 30 minutes until 23.00 hrs. One way fare: 117 baht. Reservation: Rung Ruang Tour Tel. 02-390-1230

Depart from the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit) to the Pattaya Bus Station on North Pattaya Rd. daily at 04.00 hrs. and every 30 minutes until 22.00 hrs. One way fare: 124 Baht Reservation : Rung Ruang Tour Tel. 02-271-2962

Depart from the Bus Terminal (North Pattaya) to the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) One way fare: 113 Baht and to the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit) One way fare: 121 Baht. daily at 05.00 hrs. and every 30 minutes until 23.00 hrs. Reservation : Rung Ruang Tour Tel. 02-271-2962

Depart from the Bangkok Airport to Pattaya at 09.00, 12.00 and 19.00 hrs. One way fare: 180 Baht Reservation: Thai Airways, arrival lounge, Bangkok Airport Tel. 02-535-2801, 535-2803 Pattaya Tel. 038-423-140

Departure from any hotel in Bangkok to Pattaya daily at 09.00, 11.30, 14.30 hrs. One way fare is 200 baht. Reservation: bell Travel Tel: 02-747-4675-6
By 2nd Class Air Conditioned Bus and Regualar Bus (Unspecified)

Departure from the Eastern Bus Ternimal, Tel. 02-391-2504, Daily at 05.00 hrs. and every 30 minutes until 21.00 hrs. One way fare: 120 baht.

By Train

Few visitors to Pattaya are aware that the city does have a railway station. It is north of Sukhumvit Rd close to the Siam Country Club. One train a day leaves Bangkok Railway Station (Hualamphong) at 7am and takes 5 hours to works its way down to Pattaya. For more details call (66-2) 223-7010, 223-7020.

By Air

The vast majority of tourists going to Patttaya are unaware that the resort does have U-Tapo Airport at Sattahip. Currently the only scheduled flights are operated by Bangkok Airways to and from Koh Samui.

Beach

Jomtien Beach

Jomtien Beach this 6-kilometers long, largely straight beach, some 4 kilometers south of Pattaya, is the most notable of several beaches south of the resort. The beach is popular with windsurfs and waterspouts enthusiasts, largely because the area enjoys brisk and fresh breezes sweeping inland from the Thai Gulf, and because the seas are less congested with boats than is Pattaya Bay.

Jomtien is also a major residential area with beachside hotels, bunga low complexes, condominiums and restaurants.

Pattaya Beach

Pattaya Beach some 4 kilometers long, this beach faces Pattaya Bay, the major venue from where boats visit Pattaya's offshore islands. The beach curves from north to south and is largely paralleled by a tree-lined promenade and beach road, which is lined, in the northern and central parts, by hotels and restaurants.

The northern section of the beach is largely tranquil, while the central and southern parts become increasingly lively, thanks to a juxtaposition of shops, department stores, boutiques, beauty salons, supermarkets, bars, discotheques, restaurants and night clubs. The central area of the beach is a major shopping area, while the southern end is one of Pattaya's major nightlife areas.

Wong Prachan Beach

Won Prachan Beach is on the northern side of Pattaya Bay. The 1-kilometer beach shares the same entrance as the Central Wong Amat Hotel. A quiet spot, the beach is ideal for swimming and relaxation.

Island



Larn Island

Koh Larn situated to the West of Pattaya Strait, about 7.7 Kilometers from the shore, covering an area of about 4 square kilometers, popularly known as Coral Island and is 45 minutes by ferry or 20 minutes by speed boat from Pattaya Beach.

There are beautiful beaches, clear water, and an abundance of coral. Visitors can view the coral either from a glass-bottom boat or by diving down directly. A well-known beach is at Ta Waen Beach in the northern part of the Island, a 750 meters stretch of white sand with many stalls andshops. Sightseeing boats mostly dock in this area.

There are also Laemtien Beach and Samae Beach on the south-western side, each beach spanning a length of 700 and 100 meters respectively.Both are regarded as beautiful and interesting sports, especially Laemtien Beach which has remained exceptionally clean and tranquil. There are now a few stores servisitors. Ta Pan Beach on the western part of the island is 500 meters in length with make-shift lodging available.

On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, sightseeing boats usually dock along this beach all the way to Laemtie where there is coral. On the southern part is Nual Beach 450 meters in length. On this beach a hotel which accommodates a large number of tourists. This is another good place for viewing coral.



Phai Group Island

Koh Phai Group of islands is comprised of Koh Phai, Koh Manvichai, Koh leom, Koh Klung Badan etc., Koh Phai being the largest. The islands are presently under the supervision of the Royal Navy. The Koh Phai groups of islands are situated at a distance about 13 kilometers from Pattaya and takes 2 hours to reach by boat. There is a lighthouse on top of a hill at Koh Phai. Visitor's can enjoy relaxing-moments, swimming, fishing and diving down to view the coral.

Krok Island

Koh Krok a small island covering an area of 0.05 square kilo -
meters, approximately 8 kilometers from the shore. The island comprises mostly rocks. Only one sandy-beach on the east of the island is Koh Krok beach which is only 100 meters in length. This is an ideal place for coral viewing.



Sak Island

Koh Sak some 10 kilometers west of Pattaya strait or 600 meters away from Koh Larn. Koh Sak is another Small Island shaped like a horseshoe with an area of 0.05 square kilometers. It has two beaches, one on the northern cover 250 meters in length, and area in which boats usually stop for tourists to swim and another one on the southern part of the island opposite the first island, with a pathway linking the two beaches, a small beach 80 meters in length. A coral is found at the area in front of the beach. Skin-diving is also possible in this vicinity.

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Chanthaburi



Famous for its abundance of tropical fruits and as a centre of gems, the eastern province of Chanthaburi is also blessed with rich, verdant forests with scenic waterfalls. The Chanthaburi River flows through the town which has been the home of ancient communities. Quiet fishing villages and peaceful beaches are not far from town.

Chanthaburi was occupied by the French during the early part of the 20th century. Their influence can be seen in the architecture of many buildings including the largest Catholic cathedral in Thailand, catering to a sizeable Christian population.

About 245 kilometres from Bangkok and covering an area of 6,338 square kilometers, Chanthaburi as administratively divided into the following districts:- Mueang Chanthaburi, Tha Mai, Khlung, Laem Sing, Pong Nam Ron, Makham, Soi Dao, Na Yai Am, Kang Hang Maeo and Khao Khitchakut sub-district.

How To Get There

Car

From Bangkok, take Highway No. 34 (Bang Na-Trat) or Motorway to Chonburi, then use Highway No. 344 (Ban Bung-Klaeng) and proceed to Chanthaburi along Highway No. 3.

Bus

Both air-conditioned and non air-conditioned buses depart from Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) to Chanthaburi every hour from 4 a.m.-midnight. For more information, contact Transport Co. Ltd at Tel: 0 2391 2504; Choet Chai Tour Tel: 0 2391 4146; Phonnipha Tour Tel: 0 2391 5179.

The Trok Nong Waterfall

There are two other waterfalls in the park. The Khlong Narai waterfal, about 6 kilometres from town via Highway No. 3 at a right turn at Km. 338-339 and two kilometres further away on foot. The Trok Nong waterfall is off Highway No. 3277 (Khlung-Makham route) with a left turn at Trok Nong market and a further 2 kilometres on foot.

Chantaburi Horticultural Research Centre

Located at Tambon Phliu, about 15 kilometres from the city. In its large area are various plantations such as durian, mango steen, rambutan and a variety of herbs and spices. The centre is opened for group visitors (more than 10 people). Advanced contact is necessary at Tel: 0 3939 7030.

Hat Laem Sing

Laem Sing is about 30 kilometres from town and can be reached via Sukhumvit Road on the way to Trat with a right turn at Km. 347, a further distance of 16 kilometres to the beach. The beach itself is shaded with pine trees lining the entire shore and cooled by constant gentle breezes. There are food shops and boats for rent to visit two nearby isles, Ko Chula and Ko Nom Sao. The trip takes 30 minutes and one hour respectively.

Hat Laem Sing

Laem Sing is about 30 kilometres from town and can be reached via Sukhumvit Road on the way to Trat with a right turn at Km. 347, a further distance of 16 kilometres to the beach. The beach itself is shaded with pine trees lining the entire shore and cooled by constant gentle breezes. There are food shops and boats for rent to visit two nearby isles, Ko Chula and Ko Nom Sao. The trip takes 30 minutes and one hour respectively.

Khuk Khi Kai

The notorious Khuk Khi Kai, just before Laem Sing beach, was built to hold Thais who were against the French occupation of Chanthaburi in 1893. A 7-metre high, square-shaped prison, it was built in bricks with each side measuring 4.40 metres. The walls were holed for ventilation. The porous roof is said to have been used as chicken coop through which the birds dropped their excrements.

Namtok Phliu National Park

A left turn at Km. 346 on Highway No. 3 is the Namtok Phliu National Park, covering an area of 134.5 square kilometres along forestland at Khao Sa Bap mountain range. The 3-level Phliu waterfall features a basin of cool, clear water for splashing around and plenty of fish make the flowing streams their home. Nearby are a small Chedi and a pyramid built by King Rama V as a loving memorial to Phra Nang Chao Sunanthakumarirat, his first consort, who died in a boat accident.

There are two other waterfalls in the park. The Khlong Narai waterfal, about 6 kilometres from town via Highway No. 3 at a right turn at Km. 338-339 and two kilometres further away on foot. The Trok Nong waterfal is off Highway No. 3277 (Khlung-Makham route) with a left turn at Trok Nong market and a further 2 kilometres on foot.

Trat



Trat is Thailand's eastern-most province, located about 315 kilometers from Bangkok. This small province borders on Cambodia with the Khao Banthat mountain range forming a natural demarcation. With 52 large and small offshore islands, long white sandy beaches and unspoiled coral reefs, Trat offers delightful scenery and a tranquil hideout for nature-lovers. The province also serves as a major fruit-growing and fishing area.

The city of Trat is a starting point for Ko Chang island group or forays into outlying gem and Cambodian markets. Those enthralled by shopping will be delighted as Trat has more markets for its size than almost any other town in Thailand due to Cambodian coastal trade.
Like Chanthaburi, Trat is a very important ruby-mining province, with the most famous gem market located in Bo Rai District, some 50 kilometers north of the Cambodian border.

With an area of 2,819 square kilometers, the province is administratively divided into the districts of Muang, Khao Saming, Laem Ngop, Khlong Yai and Bo Rai, and the sub-districts of Ko Chang and Ko Kut.

The weather in and around Trat is very comfortable with warm temperatures throughout the year. The region is influenced by the northeastern and southwestern winds, which sometimes limit sea transport to a group of islands particularly from May to October when the southwest monsoon blows. During this period the western coast can be wet and stormy and occasionally unsafe for ferries and smaller boats to lift anchor. However, visitors can still visit the islands via the normally more popular routes, most of which are to the northeast of Ko Chang, anyway.



The Past

The history of Trat can be traced back to the reign of King Prasat Thong of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. Formerly known as Muang Thung Yai, Trat has played an important role in the development of country's stability and economy due to its strategic location. The town of Trat has later become a community of Chinese Merchants.

Trat served as a checkpoint and buffer city in 1767 and was responsible for providing provisions to King Taksin the Great before he moved his navy from Chanthaburi to Ayutthaya, where he expelled the Burmese and liberated the Kingdom from Burmese rule.

In the Ratanakosin period, during the reign of King Rama V, Trat played an important role again in stabilizing the country's sovereignty. King Rama V made an agreement with the French government (who had also taken Chanthaburi under its supervision) to get Trat back. In doing this, Phra Tabong, Siamrat and Sri Sophon were traded off.
During the Indochina War, the French Navy tried to seize Trat again. The French Thai Battle broke out on 17 January 1941 at Ko Chang. The Thai Navy successfully drove out the French Navy.


How to Get There

By Car

From Bangkok, take Highway No. 34 (Bang Na-Trat) or Motorway to Chonburi, then use Highway No. 344 (Ban Bung-Klaeng) Arriving at Klaeng, turn onto Highway No. 3 and proceed to Trat. The total distance from Bangkok to Trat is 318 kilometers.

By Bus

Both air-conditioned and non air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai) to Trat every hour from 6 a.m. to midnight. From Bangkok the buses to Trat cost 169 baht for 1st class air-conditioned buses (132 baht for 2nd class) and 197 baht for 24-seat VIP air-conditioned buses or 113 baht for regular buses. The trip takes five to six hours by air-conditioned bus or about eight hours by regular bus.

For more information, contact Transport Co. Ltd at Tel: 0-2391 -4164, Choet Chai Tour Tel: 0-2391-2237, Chok Anukun Tour Tel: 0-2392-7680 and Suppharat Tour Tel: 0-2391-2331.

Several non air-conditioned buses leave daily, starting from 07.00a.m.-11.00p.m. Fare is 78B (Tel.02 391-2504). Air-conditioned buses leave every 1.30 hours, starting from 07.00a.m.-11.00p.m.. Fare is 140B (Tel. 02 391-4164).

From Chanthaburi to Trat, the regular bus takes about 30 minutes. If one goes by taxi from Chanthaburi to Trat, it takes around 45 minutes.

Travelling around Trat

Car rent in Muang District

Suppharat Opposite to Choet Chai Tour, Sukhumvit Road, Tel: 0-3931-2011, 0-3951-2236

Getting around the city

Sam lors around town should cost about 10 baht per person. Small song taews cost about 5 baht per person on a share basis or 20 baht to 40 baht for the whole vehicle.

Getting to Islands

Ferries depart either from Ao Thammachat Pier, or Ko Chang Centre Point Landings between 07.30 a.m. - 4.30 p.m., with a travel time of 30 minutes. Private vehicles can be loaded onto the ferry. Please note that vehicles used on the island should be 4 wheel drive vehicles as road conditions are bumpy and there are steep slopes to be negotiated. From the landing on Ko Chang there are song taew services to various points. Fares should be settled beforehand.

Ban Hat Lek

Ban Hat Lek is the farthest border village in Trat. It is on Highway No. 318 within Khlong Yai District about 16 kilometers from the district town, or approximately 89 kilometers from the provincial capital. After the conflict ended in Cambodia, it has become a channel for Thai-Cambodia trading. There is an immigration check point at the border. Visitors wishing to enter Cambodia from here have to apply for visa at the Cambodian Embassy in advance. Along Highway No. 318 (Trat-Khlong Yai) are several white clean beaches and other attractions including:

Hat Ban Chuen

This quiet beach is at Km. 59 of Highway No. 318 (Trat-Khlong Yai).
Accommodations are available.

Khao Lan Thai Red Cross Centre

The Khao Lan Thai Red Cross Centre on Trat-Khlong Yai Highway at Km. 48 was formerly a facility to assist Cambodian refugees who fled the fighting in their country into Thailand from 1978 until peace was restored in 1986. After the refugees were repatriated, the centre was closed. Today, the site has been adapted into a tourist facility. Tel: 0 3952 1621.

Wat Saen Tum

This temple is a Dharma-practicing facility amid the cool shade of forests and fruit orchards. To the south of the temple is what is called the Khao To Mo Ancient Site where piles of stone pillars have been discovered. It is believed that they were components of ancient Khmer structures. In addition, a large number of relics such as pottery and ornaments and beads were found at the site.

Wat Saen Tum can be reached by taking the Saen Tung-Bo Rai route. At Km. 18.5, take a left turn to head for Ban Tha Lai, Ban Na Makham and Ban Erem where the temple is situated. The temple is about 38 kilometers from Khao Saming district.



Ko Chang

A stretch of long white sandy beach dotted with coconut tree orchards is a common sight on Ko Chang the largest and busiest island in Trat and the second largest island in the country after Phuket.

Covering an area of 429 square kilometers, Ko Chang, boasts several amazing natural wonders that blend magnificently with the traditional way of life such as 70 percent undisturbed island rainforest, steep hills, cliffs, waterfalls, and notable wildlife, fine beaches, coral reefs and an abundance of marine life. In addition, numerous fruit orchards dot the island.

Most of the scenic beaches and bays are on the west side spreading from the north to the south they include Ao Khlong Son , Hat Sai Khao , Hat Khlong Phrao and Hat Kai Bae. A road cuts through the western shore almost reaching Hat Kai Bae where there is a nature trail passing through Ao Bai Lan and Ao Kruat and meandering through wet forestland to Ban Bang Bao, a fishing community on the foot of the hill in the south.

To the east are Ao Sapparot, where a ferry landing is situated and Ao Salak Khok. In addition, along the eastern shoreline is a road cutting through to Ao Salak Phet, a community with a boat pier to the south of the island. Coral ranges worth visiting are at Ao Khlong Son near Ko Chang Noi and around islands south of Ko Chang.

In addition to sea-based attractions Ko Chang has numerous inland attractions including several waterfalls with reasonable access. They are the Khlong Phlu waterfall, 3 kilometers from Ao Khlong Phrao and a further 20 minutes on foot; Khlong Nonsi waterfall, a 4-kilometre walk from park headquarters; and Khiriphet and Khlong Nung falls, which are about 3 kilometers from Ban Salak Phet.
As well as the obvious activities Ko Chang offers many other attractions including waterfalls, temples, the National Park and Museum or the beautiful scenic lookout points, which are all worth a visit. Divers will find fascinating diving areas off of the shores of Ko Chang and the surrounding islands. Besides the many coral reefs, sunken warships, a reminder of times past, can be visited in the Salak Phet Bay.

The Ko Chang National Park occupies an area of 650 square kilometers and is comprised of 47 islets, which spread from Laem Ngob to Klong Yai Districts. . The most popular islands includes Ko Chang, Ko Klum, Ko Ngam, Ko Lao Ya and Ko Rung where natural wonders await travelers. The most popular season for traveling to the National Park is from November to March. The park headquarters are divided into 4 units namely Tha Than Mayom, Ban Khlong Son, Tha Khlong Plu and Ban Salak which provide useful tourist information. At any one of the headquarters, an entry fee of 200baht is collected.

For transportation to Ko Chang, please refer to the traveling to Ko Chang section.

Wat Bang Bao is on the roadside, next to the turn-off to Ban Bang Bao.

Wat Khlong Prao is located in Baan Khlong Prao, also right off the main road.

Wat Khlong Son is approximately 500 metres from the intersection in Ban Khlong Son, in the direction of the bay.
At the top of the hill after Sapparot Bay towards Ban Khlong Son there is a Chinese temple.

Wat Khlong Nonsi is situated just before the Dan-May Pier in Baan Khlong Nonsi. Turn towards the sea at the intersection on the main road. Proper clothes should be worn during temple visits.

Ko Chang Naval Battle Area

This area is located to the south of Ko Chang close to Salak Petch Bay. It is the area where the battle between the Thai and French Naval forces was fought over the eastern border conflict. The Thai Navy holds an annual event to commemorate the combat victory and make merit for the dead naval forces on 17 January.

Namtok Than Mayom

A 3-tiered medium-sized waterfall located behind the parks office. There is a trail situated 500 meters from a durian orchard that leads to the site where King Rama V and VI had visited and signed their royal names on the highest cliff of the cascade.

Namtok Kiri Phet

Located to the south of Ko Chang, approximately 3 kilometers from Ban Salak Petch.

Namtok Khlong Nonsi

This is a little waterfall in the northeast zone of the island. The path to the area lies 3 kilometers from Baan Daan Mai or 3 kilometers from the national park office.

Namtok Khlong Nueng

This is a small 120 meter high waterfall situated in a remote area from Salak Petch Community near Salak Petch Waterfall is an ideal place for relaxation.

Ban Salak Petch and Ban Rong Than

These are the largest fishing villages on the island and are ideal venues for visitors wishing to experience or observe their lifestyle. Bungalows and food shops are available.

Bang Bao Fishing Village

Another ideal spot to learn more about the lifestyle of fishermen where residents build up their houses with poles pitched into the sea and the community is linked together via a bridge that reaches every house. In addition, Bang Bao is one of the zones rich in corals.

Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach)

One of the longest beaches on Ko Chang, this beach provides the most magnificent seascape. The beach, which is 2 kilometers long, is dotted with reasonably priced bungalows and resorts. Embracing the beach to the rear are orchards of coconut trees and forests.

Khlong Son Bay

Rich in coral lines, the bay is located on the western coast of Ko Chang where Klong Son Community is situated.

Namtok Khlong Plu

A large 3-tiered waterfall situated 3 kilometers or a walking distance of approximately 20 minutes away from Khlong Prao Bay that is a rewarding experience.

Tri Petch Waterfall

This single level waterfall is situated 3 kilometers from Salak Petch Community along an orchard of rubber trees.

Hat Khlong Phrao and Laem Chat Chet

Laem Chai Chet is along the sea adjacent to Kai Bae Beach, which is rather steep but offers possibilities for swimming. Standard bungalows with facilities are available. The northernmost area of Klong Phrao Beach is adjacent to Chai Chet Bay and Beach where visitors can take in the beautiful landscape while enjoying the superb relaxation and tranquil retreat.

Kai Bae Beach

This beach is close to Khlong Phrao Beach and is similar to Khlong Phrao in that the beach is steep but safe for swimming with quite a few inexpensively priced bungalows in the area.

Ao Bai Lan

This small bay with its long sandy beach where visitors can enjoy the spectacular view in serene ambience is situated close to Kai Bae beach.

Hat Khlong Kloi

This shady beach with coconut trees located next to Bang Bao Village is a perfect place for relaxation.

Activities in Ko Chang

The main thing to do when in Ko Chang is to relax. Other than that, there are numerous activities for visitors such as fishing, snorkeling and visiting nearby islands. In addition, many resorts rent out kayaks and arrange jungle treks as well as provide all day boat tours to the nearby islands. Moreover, scooters can be rented in most places, which make the island easier to explore independently, however the driver should have some two-wheel experience as the roads have a tendency to fade away to nothing more than tracks.

Furthermore, there are diving schools at all of the 4 largest beaches on the west coast, where tours can be booked or various diving licenses can be obtained and sailing-tours can also be booked in many resorts and travel agencies.

Accommodations on Ko Chang

There are many resorts and bungalows on Ko Chang thus visitors purchasing boat/ferry tickets from any of the piers should inform the staff of the desired beach and resort accommodations reserved to prevent misunderstandings on the destination. Facilities on Ko Chang include mainly bungalow-type accommodations on most beaches which generally rent out bicycles and boats. Budget and high-end accommodations are also available with prices ranging from 100 baht (bungalow) to 6,500 baht for superior/deluxe rooms in boutique hotels and internationally accredited resorts.

Best time to visit Ko Chang and other islands

The season is from October to May as from mid May to mid October most of the resorts are closed, but visitors will still be able to find a few open, as some of the owners actually live there and are open all year round.

Dining delights in Ko Chang

Ko Chang is still virtually an untouched gastronomic paradise as the islanders have made a living fishing in the beautiful blue seas for centuries. There are plenty of seafood restaurants dotted around the island and with the recent addition of a number of resorts, visitors can now enjoy a wide range of local and international cuisines.

As the island only has a single road and most restaurants are located on the road or in resort compounds, they are easy to find. It just takes a little looking around to find a place that suits your fancy. Reservations are not normally required but if you want to dine further up the scale it is best to book in advance.

Getting to Ko Chang

A 5 hours bus trip from the Eastern Bus Terminal will take visitors to the Trat Bus Terminal (departures between 06.00 a.m. until 12.00 p.m.). From there continue by song taew transport to Laem Ngop, which is 17 kilometers from town, or the ferry landings at Ao Thammachat and Ko Chang Centre Point where services are operated all day.

Passenger boats usually leave from Laem Ngop to Ao Sapparot on Ko Chang every hour from 8.00 a.m. until 5.00 p.m. The trip takes 45 minutes and the fare is 50 baht per person. Visitors can continue to Hat Sai Khao, Hat Khlong Phrao and Hat Kai Bae by local bus which charges 30 baht per person. The schedules and fares are subject to change without notice due to climate condition. For current information, please contact TAT Trat office, Tel: Tel: 0-3959-7255, 0-3959-7259-60 Fax: 0-3959-7255.

Ferry Services

Ferries depart either from Ao Thammachat or Ko Chang Center Point Landings between 7.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. with a traveling time of 30 minutes. Private vehicles can be loaded onto the ferry. Please note that vehicles used on the island should be the 4-wheel drive types as road conditions are bumpy and there are steep slopes to be negotiated. From the landing on Ko Chang are song taew services to various points. Fares should be settled beforehand.

Naval Battle Monument Pier (Krom Luang Pier)

Wooden boats depart every hour from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. The passenger fare for a round trip costs approximately 100 baht. Call tel. 039 538 084 for more details.

Center Point Pier

Ferries leave hourly from 6.00 a.m. until 7.00p.m. Call 039 538196 for more information.

Rates for round trip:

4-wheel vehicles, 60 baht/passenger
6-wheel vehicles, 250 baht, no charge for driver and one passenger
10-wheel vehicles, 500 baht, no charge for driver and one passenger

Ao Thammachat Pier

Ferries leave every hour from 6.30 a.m. to 7.15 p.m. Contact 039 528288-9 for more details.

Rates for round trip:

4-wheel vehicle, 60 baht/passenger, no charge for driver
6-wheel vehicle, 500 baht, no charge for driver but 60 baht fee is applied for any passenger
10-wheel vehicle, 1,000 baht, no charge for driver and one passenger

Ko Chang Ferry

Ferries depart every 45 minutes from 6.30 a.m. until 7.15 p.m. For more information call tel. 039 597143.

Rates for round trip:

4-wheel vehicle 150 baht, no charge for driver, but a fee of 60 baht/passenger is applied
6-wheel vehicle, 500 baht, no charge for driver but 60 baht fee is applied for any passenger
10-wheel vehicle, 1,000 baht, no charge for driver and one passenger
For visitors planning to stay at Ko Wai there is a ferry service from Laem Ngob to Ko Wai at around 3:00 p.m. with a fare of 120 baht/person/one way.
For visitors planning to stay at Ko Kham there is a ferry service from Laem Ngob to Ko Kham at around 3:00 p.m. with a fare of 170 baht/person/one way.
For visitors planning to stay at Ko Mak there is a ferry service from Laem Ngob to Ko Mak at around 3:00 p.m. with a fare of 150 baht/person/one way.
Facilities on Ko Chang include mainly bungalow-type accommodations on most beaches and rental services for bicycles and boats.
Several smaller isles south of Ko Chang include Ko Wai, Ko Lao Ya and Ko Kradat. Noted for both deep-water and shallow-water corals are the Ko Kra group and Ko Rang which are to the west of Ko Mak.
Travel to other Islands
Most visitors come to Amphoe Laem Ngob where there are 2 piers namely Laem Ngob and Ko Chang Centre Point, offering daily boat services to islands such as Ko Mak, Ko Wai, and Ko Kham. Tourist spots in Ko Chang and other groups of islands.

Ko Chang Noi

Ko Chang Noi and Laem Chang Noi lie to the north of Ko Chang. The sea between Ko Chang Noi and Laem Chang Noi is abundant with corals.

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Sarah Bones: East Africa

Image Copyright © Sarah Bones-All Rights Reserved

Sarah S. Bones saved for her first 35mm camera at age 13, and immediately hitchhiked into Philadelphia so that she could photograph the lives and circumstances of people living on the street. As a professional photographer, her passion is in documenting people in need and has carried her to Africa, across Asia, Guatemala, Cuba and locally, into prisons, homeless shelters and the intensity of political campaigns. Her international travel has also taken her to Sierra Leone, India, Zanzibar and Tanzania and Somalia.

Sarah is self-taught, and has won numerous awards. Her image "The Grieving Women" taken in Sierra Leone won placement in The NPPA Women in Photojournalism Contest Expanding Our Vision 2007. Her photographs have been exhibited both nationally and internationally.

I chose Sarah's East Africa gallery for TTP, despite her very strong photographs of Cuba. I found the one above of an orphanage in Somalia to be one of my favorite because of the colors and the blurry forefront figure...I favor this technique when I want to give frontal perspective to a distant scene.

Sarah Bones' East AFrica

Monday, November 19, 2007

Unsung: Extraordinary People

Image Copyright © Mahesh Bhat-All Rights Reserved

Since TTP is a non-commercial blog, I do not post about books unless I've read and enjoy them, however this is an exception.

UNSUNG is an inspirational book about Indians with ordinary backgrounds who have made extraordinary contributions to their communities. The book tells the stories of nine of such people from places across India, such as Ladkah, Karnataka, Kerala, Orissa, Tamil Nadu, West Bengal and Orissa.

It seems that the book was about 5 years in the making, and published despite many odds. It features B&W photographs by photographer Mahesh Bhat and text by journalist Anita Pratap, who have self-published the book.

I thought the best story was that of Tulasi Munda, an adivasi from Orissa, who started a school under a tree, selling puffed rice to finance it. The school has educated more than 15,000 so far. I've photographed the adivasis in Chhattisgarh, and I'm aware of the difficulties they face...so to read about Tulasi Munda's achievements is encouraging.

Both Mahesh and Anita deserve praise and admiration for their determination, and for bringing these extraordinary "ordinary" people to our awareness.

Unsung

The New Americans


Over six months, members of the Columbia News21 team (A Journalism Initiative of the Carnegie and Knight Foundations) traveled 525,000 miles across the United States, Canada, India and Iran in search of a better understanding of minority religions and the immigrants who practice them.

From the project's website: "American religion is now a festival of rituals, practices, behaviors and beliefs that once seemed like the province of faraway lands. Today, mosques and gurudwaras and temples sacred to Buddhists and Hindus dot the American landscape along with churches and synagogues. What is more, Catholics, Protestants and Jews -- having absorbed immigrant populations -- aren’t what they once were."

This is a comprehensive study of America's minority (and majority) religions and faiths presented through a combination of multimedia products and styles. Many, if not all, of us would benefit from giving this remarkably compelling project the time it richly deserves to absorb it, and learn from it.

The New Americans

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Patients Without Borders

Image © Larry Towell/Magnum for NY Times-All Rights Reserved

I recently ranted and ridiculed the New York Times Magazine here for publishing superficial photo-essays in comparison to those appearing in its British counterparts, such as the Times of London and The Independent, so I'm pleased this weekend that it published Third World Clinic, First World Country, a compelling and certainly hard-hitting photo essay.

Third World Clinic, First World Country documents the work of a volunteer medical relief corps called Remote Area Medical in the Appalachians. RAM has sent health expeditions to countries like Guyana, India, Tanzania and Haiti, but increasingly its work is in the United States, where 47 million people — more than 15 percent of the population — live without health insurance.

The photographs are by Larry Towers of Magnum, and the accompanying article is by Sara Corbett.

The slideshow: Third World Clinic, First World Country

The article: Patients Without Borders

Hands On The Canon 1Ds MKIII

Michael Reichmann of The Luminous Landscape recently returned from two weeks of photography in Madagascar with the new Canon 1Ds MKIII. He writes an interesting article sharing some photographs of the trip, as well as valuable observations and comments from using a pre-production sample of the new Canon 1Ds MKIII.

This is a hand-on write-up by a photographer in the field...the kind I find much more useful than a dry technical review.

Here's the link: Mad About Madagascar