Big Picture: A Royal Farewell In Bali

© Bay Ismoyo/AFP/Getty Images-All Rights Reserved
Another pictorial coverage of the royal cremation on the island of Bali is featured by the Boston Globe's Big Picture blog.

The head of the royal family of Ubud was laid to rest in a rare, spectacular Royal Funeral - the largest in decades. The head of the family, two other members of the royal family, and 68 commoners were cremated in the ceremony - their bodies having been previously preserved, awaiting cremation, which is traditionally believed to free their souls for future reincarnation.

The images by various photographers are on The Big Picture

Lightroom: Stunning Black & White

Photograph © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved
Chris Orwig of Layers magazine has written an article on how to create stunning black & white images in Lightroom.

I sometimes test tutorials, whether for Lightroom or Photoshop (the latter less and less frequently), but usually find them too complicated...and frankly, not worth the time to learn them. As I often mention, I'm far from being a pixel pusher, and my fiddling with photographs is kept to an absolute minimum. So I'm not at all keen in learning a superfluous new technique that I sense will keep me chained to my desk for hours.

However this one is well worth the time and effort...it's simple, it's effective and even allowed me to add some tone to the final image. I've used it to create the above photograph taken last week in Coney Island in a matter of minutes.

Zoriah: Disembedded

Photo District News (PDN) features an article on Zoriah Miller, a freelance photographer who published pictures of dead U.S. Marines on his blog, which he claims has led him to be ejected from his U.S. military embed in Iraq. Click above to view an audio slideshow of Zoriah's photographs.

Zoriah told PDN: "They embedded a war photographer, and when I took a photo of war, they disembedded me. It's as if it's okay to take pictures of them handing lollipops to kids on the street and providing medical care, but photographing the actual war is unacceptable."

PDN's full article is HERE

Justin Mott: Royal Plebon Ceremony

© Justin Mott for The New York Times-All Rights Reserved
The New York Times features a well produced multimedia piece on a royal cremation ceremony in Ubud, Bali with photographs by the talented Justin Mott, and produced by Michael Kolomatsky and Patrick Witty. The accompanying audio of the royal cremation is nicely woven in the sequence of Justin's photographs. You'll hear the lighting of the fire coinciding at precisely the right instant as the photograph of the pyre appears on the screen... in newspapers with deadlines, paying attention to such sync'ing is often not the case.

Jefri Aries, a Balinese photojournalist, announced the event on Lightstalkers a few days ago. On July 15, the Ubud Royal Family held a cremation ceremony for the bodies of two prominent elders of the family. These were Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, head of of the Ubud Royal Family and leader of the traditional community in Ubud since 1976, and Tjokorda Gde Raka, a senior officer in the police force in Denpasar until his retirement in 1992.

The cremation procession and associated ceremonies are rituals of paramount importance in the Hindu rites of passage. During the Royal Plebon Ceremony, the bodies of the deceased were carried through the streets of Ubud by thousands of local people on top of a nine-tiered tower called ‘bade’. The procession was accompanied by an elaborately decorated and venerated bull effigy (Lembu) and a mythical dragon-like creature (Naga Banda), with a five meter-long tail. The naga is reserved for only the elders of the Royal family and is seldom seen in cremation ceremonies.

Seth Mydans wrote the accompanying article Circle of Life

Having led a photo-expedition to Bali last year, I witnessed a number of cremations and affiliated ceremonies, so this brought back many visual flashbacks and memories.

Recorder Reviews: II

The valuable and informative Transom website has a comparative portable digital recorder review which lists most of the more available and popular brands here.

The recorder of choice used by the photographers attending my Multimedia Storytelling class at the Foundry Photojournalism Workshop (Mexico City) was the Zoom H2, an easy-to-use and inexpensive model. The feedback I got was that it performs well...but that its controls are not really intuitive, and that it feels somewhat fragile,

I'm still using the M-Audio Microtrack that hasn't performed as it should have in the past few weeks. I'm not sure whether its a software problem, or whether it decided it had reached the end of its useful life (it hasn't been used long enough for that).

Adrianne Koteen: Burma

Photograph © Adrianne Koteen-All Rights Reserved
Adrianne Koteen attended the Foundry Photojournalism Workshop in Mexico City, and it's there that I had the good fortune of reviewing her portfolio.

She's a freelance photographer, educator and arts consultant based in San Francisco, and her biography reveals that she works internationally with a variety of non-profits, museums, and individual clients. Adrienne is also the program coordinator for Fotovision, a Bay Area based non-profit whose mission is to advance social documentary photography though education, dialogue and community. Her photography has taken her to six continents, and her work has been used in numerous non-profit settings, including an Imagining Ourselves exhibit at the United Nations.

While reviewing Adrienne's portfolio at the workshop, I stopped at the above photograph of a Burmese monk looking over lake Taungthamanthe from the U Bein bridge in Amarapura. I thought it was an exceptionally beautiful photograph, worthy of being entered in photography contests, and if I were a judge, of winning. At the very least, I think this photograph could be used as an ideal double-spread for articles on Burma, particularly because of its composition...the right hand expanse is perfect for titles and preambles to the main text.

I foresee an extremely bright future for Adrienne in social documentary photography, as well as in travel editorial photography, should she choose to pursue her career in these fields.

Advance Peek: To Cambodia With Love

To Cambodia With Love: A Travel Guide for the Connoisseur is a one-of-a-kind guide for the passionate traveler published by Things Asian Press in San Francisco.

The photographs are by Tewfic El-Sawy (aka The Travel Photographer) and is edited and with contributions by Andy Brouwer. I'm pleased with the choice of the photograph of the Royal Apsaras on the cover; it was made in Angkor Wat and this one in particular is of one of the dancers adjusting the headgear of another before the photo shoot.

The book is 5 1/2 x 8 1/2 inches; paperback; color & b/w images and will be available for order in winter of 2008.

When it comes to Cambodia, no one knows it better than the contributors to To Cambodia With Love. Sharing their own stories in their own words, they will introduce you to some of the country’s most memorable experiences.

I will announce its publication date on TTP as soon as I know it, and hope you'll buy it! It promises to be a blockbuster.

Tours around Tbilisi (4): Skitour to Lomisa Chapel (Gudauri Region)

Tbilisi offers a wide range of 1- day tours.

Georgian Tourism Association (GTA) has tested some of them.

Please note:

GTA does not sell tours, the service is for information only and we do not take responsibility for any inconvenience that people might encounter during the proposed tours.

FOR GUIDE SERVICE & BOOKING CONTACT GTA-MEMBER COMPANIES


Tour 4: Skitour to Lomisa Chapel (Gudauri Region)

A wonderful, small skitour on the powder snow side of the Aragvi Valley near the skiresort Gudauri.
Lomisa Chapel (2190m) is wonderful and it is surprising - especially in winter- to find this building up there in the mountains.

Description
In Arakhveti village start climbing up the open ridge up to the plateau that you traverse to your right. Then climb up to Lomisa Chapel (obvious with good weather, but be careful with avalanches). From the chapel it is possible to continue up the ridge left or right.
In case of bad weather it is prudent not to attempt reaching the Chapel (danger of avalanches just below the ridge) but rather continue to climb up before the traverse of the plateau through the forest and bushes nearly up to the ridge.

Ski down the same way! The descent is also done by heli-skiers from Gudauri.

In spring with stabilized snow you can ski down the gully on your right (when descending) where snow transforms a few hours later and lasts longer.

How to get there
Go with own or public transport (Marshrutka) on Georgian Military Highway in direction of Gudauri, through Ananuri, Pasanauri to just before Mleta (before crossing the river Aragvi). Park your car at the entrance of village Arakhveti or at the Police Station in Kvemo Mleta (then you have to walk back the road for 10min or so).

Dangers & Annoyances
Only with stabilized snow conditions. Be extra careful with avalanches just before reaching the Chapel.

The dogs of Arakhveti Village bark at skiers and look impressive but did not bite us in any case. If you are fast at the descent they do not see you…

Difficulty
Easy. Experience with Ski touring is required.

Best season
From December to April with stabilized snow conditions.
All other seasons: A beautiful hike through flower meadows.

Without skis it is advisable to start directly in Kvemo Mleta and walk up the steep path through the forest behind the village.

Duration
approx 3-4 hours up & down, 700-900m ascent/descent, max. elevation 2400m.

More information
Guidebook: Haeberli/Hawker: “Under Eagles Wings. Hike, Bike, Horseback & Skitour in Georgia”.

Tours around Tbilisi (5): Saguramo Forest & Sioni Lake

Tbilisi offers a wide range of 1- day tours.
Georgian Tourism Association (GTA) has tested some of them.

Please note:
GTA does not sell tours, the service is for information only and we do not take responsibility for any inconvenience that people might encounter during the proposed tours.

FOR GUIDE SERVICE & BOOKING CONTACT GTA-MEMBER COMPANIES

Tour 5: Saguramo Nature Reserve & Sioni Reservoir (Tianeti Region)

Enjoy the cool shade of a deep beech, maple and oak forest and/or swim in the clear waters of Sioni Reservoir. Ideal to escape the summer heat of Tbilisi.

Description
The spectacular forest with 1000 year old trees of Saguramo Nature Reserve is enchanting. The most beautiful part of the forest you drive trough is located behind the village Tskhvarichamia. There are many hike options that need some sense of orientation but are not difficult.


The surroundings of the lake remind you of a lower alpine part of Switzerland. You’ll enjoy walking through the flower meadows in spring or bathing and relaxing on the lake shore.


From the forest it is around 30 min drive to reach the lake passing an impressive alley of poplar trees.

The Iori Valley streches far into the mountains above Tianeti, offering excellent walks in the mountains up to 2200-3000m, which were very popular during Soviet times and are yet to be rediscovered.

How to get there
The best way to reach Sioni reservoir is via Gldani (1.5 hours) as the road is curvy but good. No comparison with the off-road via Zhinvali and Tianeti and a lot better and more scenic than the road via village Saguramo.


Drive through Gldani into the valley leading north-east direction Tianeti, pass the ex-resort Tskhvarichamia still populated with refugees (IDPs) from Abkhazia and turn right when the road splits to Tianeti (left) and Sioni (right).



Find a suitable place at the lake.

With a bit of luck you can find an occasional Marshrutka to take you there if you don’t have a car.

Roundtrip option

If you continue the road from Sioni down the Iori valley (less good road!!!) you’ll reach the 6th century fortress Ujarma overlooking the beautiful valley (count 1.5 hours from Sioni).



From there it is another hour drive to reach Tbilisi via M5.

Tours around Tbilisi (6): Davit Garedja Cave Monasteries

Tbilisi offers a wide range of 1- day tours.
Georgian Tourism Association (GTA) has tested some of them.

Please note:
GTA does not sell tours, the service is for information only and we do not take responsibility for any inconvenience that people might encounter during the proposed tours.

FOR GUIDE SERVICE & BOOKING CONTACT GTA-MEMBER COMPANIES

Tour 6: Davit Garedja Cave Monasteries

Discover the cave monasteries around Davit Garedja / Udabno on the border of Georgia and Azerbaijan. A great classic.

Description
A 1 ½ hour drive takes you to the famous Lavra monastery in the semi-desert area of Davit Garedja bordering Azerbaijan. It is possible to drive via Rustavi (more scenic) or via Sagaredjo (better road).

After visiting the monastery (with long trousers & covered shoulders) walk up the hill right behind the monastery to reach a huge rock face. Follow the path which bypasses it on the left and continue to the small chapel at the top. From there descend slightly to your right and follow the obvious path below the rocky ridge to visit the Udabno Caves with remains of wonderful frescos.

There are several smaller cave monasteries in the vicinity to spend a few days camping and exploring the area full of birdlife and desert colors.

Be careful with snakes when walking though high grass, over exposed rocks or reaching into dark holes, especially in spring, as the area is habitat of the dangerous Lebetine Viper.


How to get there
Public transport was offered during summer 2007 with Yellow City Buses (10 GEL). If this service will be offered in the future is uncertain.
Taxi or organized tours are the alternatives if you do not have an own car. The best road is reached when you turn right after passing through Sagaredjo (on the M5 direction Telavi).

Culinary advice
If you want to make the round trip it makes sense to start with a drive through Rustavi and go for wine tasting and Georgian food in Sagaredjo on the way back.
If you prefer beer and a more “industrial” scenery as a contrast you may go the other way round and visit Kazbegi brewery in Rustavi.

Best Season
All year, but in summer the area can be quite hot.

More information
See Guidebook: Peter Nasmyth: “Walking in the Caucasus”.

Tours around Tbilisi (7): White Water Rafting on Aragvi River

Tbilisi offers a wide range of 1- day tours.

Georgian Tourism Association (GTA) has tested some of them.

Please note:

GTA does not sell tours, the service is for information only and we do not take responsibility for any inconvenience that people might encounter during the proposed tours.

FOR GUIDE SERVICE & BOOKING CONTACT GTA-MEMBER COMPANIES

Tour 7: White Water Rafting on Aragvi River

Descend the Caucasus Rivers with the melting snow.

Description

Aragvi Rafting is a fun sport activity for ½ to 1 day as soon as the weather is warm enough to melt the snow in the mountains. There are two options depending on the water level: Mtiuletis Aragvi (Pasanauri-Chartali, difficulty WW 2-3 (on a scale from WW 1 to WW 6)) and Pshavis Aragvi (Magharoskari – Tvalivi, difficulty WW 2-3). The first offers the bigger waves (when the water is high) and the shorter access, the second the more technical rafting and the more beautiful valley. Whatever the choice, you’ll have to paddle hard to deserve the picnic or barbecue at the end.

Equipment (i.e. Neoprene suits, helmets, lifejackets) is included and you’ll have a professional guide to find the best route down the river.

Individuals will find their chances of joining a group increased on weekends.

For more difficult White-Water Rafting (Mtkvari Canyon at Vardzia WW 3-4), Rioni WW 3-4, Zkhenis Tsqali WW 3-4) and multi day trips, individual arrangements with the local Rafting Companies can be made.

There is also a possibility of Rafting on Mtkvari River in Borjomi (WW 2-3) easy but with nice waves.

It is advisable to make a reservation at least 2-3 days in advance

How to get there

The Rafting Companies offer transport from Tbilisi but you can also go to the rafting base individually (and make the rafting descent part of a multi day trip i.e. to Gudauri, Kazbegi or Shatili).

Best Season

May - September

Rant: The New Yorker

The New Yorker magazine has stirred a hornet's nest for what it calls a satirical cartoonish cover that shows Democratic presidential candidate Barack Obama dressed in a Taliban-like garment, and his wife Michelle — dressed in camouflage, combat boots and an assault rifle strapped over her shoulder — standing in the Oval Office. To add insult to injury, artist Barry Blitt added a portrait of Osama bin Laden on the wall, and the American flag burning in the fireplace. This cover is tasteless, repugnant and offensive on all levels.

I read that The New Yorker's editor says that the cover is satirizing rumors about Obama — including rumors that he's Muslim and anti-American, and defended its choice, "saying its readership is sophisticated enough to get the joke."

This is so out-of-touch (and dismissive of our intelligence) that it beggars belief as to how these people at The New Yorker think. I hope readers will find the so-called "joke" so unfunny that they cancel their subscriptions, and demand their money back. That'll be really funny.

Tours around Tbilisi (8): Martkopi Monastery

Tours around Tbilisi

Tbilisi offers a wide range of 1- day tours.
Georgian Tourism Association (GTA) has tested some of them.

Please note:
GTA does not sell tours, the service is for information only and we do not take responsibility for any inconvenience that people might encounter during the proposed tours.

FOR GUIDE SERVICE & BOOKING CONTACT GTA-MEMBER COMPANIES

Tour 8: Martkopi Monastery

Martkopi Monastery is located 30-40 min. drive from Tbilisi (25 min from airport) in a beautiful mountain forest in the East of Tbilisi.

St. Anton of Martkopi was one of the 12 disciples of St. John of Zedazeni who preached Christianity in Georgia in VI. c. A.D.

On top of a small rocky ridge, through the forest stands an old stone tower where St. Anton used to live alone for 15 years.

The tower, which you’ll reach in a 15 min walk, offers great views of the monastery in midst of the lush green forest.
The meadows around the monastery invite for picnic and play.
An ideal outing for a ½ to 1 day trip.

How to get there
Best access via the transit road around Tbilisi (Mtskheta-Baku/Yerevan, M9) passing Didi Lilo direction Gldani.
The right turn just before village Norio is signposted Martomkopeli Monastery in Georgian & English. (it is 11km drive from there through village Norio.)

Best season: Year round

Difficulty: Easy

Road condition: possible without 4 WD, village road on last 7 km

POV: Lightroom Or...?

Image © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved
The photographer Georges Mann has written an article tackling the "Can Lightroom 2 replace Photoshop CS3?" question on the O'Reilly Digital Media blog. This of course is a question that triggers endless debates, Byzantine arguments and lots of harumphs from both sides of the aisle..sort of like the Canon vs Nikon debate.

I believe that Lightroom 2 does all I need and more, and I'm glad that I've opted to go for it instead of spending my life's savings on CS3 (or on its endless stream of successors).

In a nutshell, Mann's 6th prediction in the article is precisely my view. I'd be less cautious in my verbiage than he is, but we all have our own writing style.

"6. Photo Journalists & Travel photographers - there are exceptions but most of these photographers deal with reality, so Lightroom should be enough for editing out bad shots, improving bad exposures and generally applying a personal look to their images. Lightroom can also help them present their images to their clients and put galleries on the internet."

Exactly! As a documentary and travel ethnographic photographer, I'm into reality ( I seldom crop, for instance), not fantasy...and I'm not a pixel-pusher, so CS3 is a software program that I don't need.

I occasionally listen to the arcane discussions by CS3 (or its other versions) users, who extol the minutiae of layers, adjustments, and other tools, that just make me roll my eyes to the heavens and yawn!

Via Imaging Insider.

Max Becherer: The Mandaeans of Iraq

Photograph © Max Becherer-All Rights Reserved
Here's an interesting photo essay by photographer Max Becherer on the Mandaeans in Iraq. The Mandaeans are a small religious sect in Southern Iraq and Iran, who espouse an ancient belief resembling that of Gnosticism and that of the Parsis. They are also known as Christians of St. John, among other names.

The customs of Mandaeans indicate early Christian, and possibly pre-Christian, origin. Their system of astrology resembles those of ancient Babylonia and the cults of the Magi. Although some of their practices were influenced by Christianity, Judaism, and Islam, they reject all three. St. John the Baptist is honored by the Mandaeans since their main ritual is frequent baptism. It seems that the Mandaeans are currently being discriminated against in Iraq, and forced to leave their homes.

Max Becherer is a freelance photojournalist, represented by Polaris Images since 2004, dedicated to covering international news and the Middle East. He is published in Time Magazine, the New York Times and a variety of other newspapers. Since working with Polaris, Becherer has covered Africa and the war in Iraq. He earned a Bachelor of Science degree in Photojournalism from California's San Jose State University in 2000.

Here's Max Becherer's The Mandaeans

Beyond The Frame: Coney Island's Barkers

Photograph © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved
On the corner of West 12th Street and Surf Avenue is the eye-catching Coney Island Museum and the Side-Show by The Sea. Its facade is decorated with colorful artwork depicting the Side-Show's features, such as Donny Vomit the death defying performer, Angelica the fire dancer, Heather Holliday, the sword swallower and Serpentina the Snake Charmer. This is one of the photographs of the Side-Show's barker....a dandyfied gentleman who encourages the public to pay the $7.50 entry fee to watch the so-called freak shows.

Photograph © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved
The area's seediness and its current decay has a charming aesthetic to it, and a hot dog eaten on Coney Island's boardwalk tastes better than anywhere else!